98 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
Bright red pale in color, the 2020 Barolo Francia is gorgeous with a bit more structure and depth, though it remains elegant all the way through. Its ripe, pure notes of fresh cherries, roses, incense, and spice are followed by a medium-bodied red with structured, ripe tannins, energetic lift, and gorgeous notes of apricot and tea leaf on the incredibly long finish. While it certainly boasts more depth compared to the 2018, its elegant profile harkens to the gracefulness expressed in many of the best wines in that vintage. It’s outstanding all the way through and is going to offer a tremendous amount of pleasure over the next 20 or more years.
98 Points, Vinous
The 2020 Barolo Francia is a soaring, classically austere wine built for the cellar. Medium in body and driving, with tons of mineral intensity, the 2020 is an evocative wine that makes me think about the future. This is what young Barolo should be – vibrant and stern, but with the purity of fruit that is typical here. The 2020 is so wonderfully alive.
Giacomo Conterno is one of the most historic, iconic estates in all of Italy with one of the world’s greatest wines, the Barolo Monfortino. It is made by a true perfectionist – Roberto Conterno, a man known for his unmatched attention to detail in all aspects of the winemaking process as well as his relentless work ethic. If the wine has ‘Conterno’ on the label, you can count on it to be absolutely phenomenal and ageworthy.
Let me put this in perspective for you. Roberto’s top Barolo, the mythical Monfortino, commands a staggering $1,800 per bottle. His wines are considered the best of the best in Piedmont, and you better believe that goes for this drop-dead gorgeous ‘Francia’ Barolo… even if it is a few dollars less per bottle than its big brother ;). And with the next Monfortino release not until fall of 2026, this is your best chance at Barolo perfection until then!
“Conterno fans will find a lot to like in the 2020 Barolos. For starters, Conterno bottled all his single-vineyard Barolos and Monfortino, which means readers will be able to compare all the wines, something that has not always been possible in recent years, in vintages where Conterno has chosen to just make Monfortino, or no Monfortino at all. One of the recent changes here has been a decision to shorten time in cask by a year for the Barolos. “At a certain point, we noticed the wines weren’t gaining anything by spending an additional year in cask,” Conterno told me. Given its longer aging, time in wood for Monfortino is more of vintage-by-vintage decision, although, here, too, the general trend is also to give the wine less time in cask. In other news, Conterno recently announced his acquisition of Ristorante Bovio in La Morra. Ristorante Bovio is one of the most loved restaurants in the region. It will be interesting to see what things look like when the restaurant re-opens (with a new name) in a few months’ time. In my view, there is no stronger message a producer can send than investing in their own region.” -Antonio Galloni