Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto Fogliano 2021

At French Laundry in Yountville, you will undoubtedly see a lot of familiar names on the list. Our friend’s at Diebolt-Vallois have the by-the-glass Champagne pour and our friends at Hourglass are the by-the-glass Sauvignon Blanc If you ever look at the bottle list and Marche, whenever you look, you will see Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica for $85/btl because it’s just that good. People repeatedly fork over large sums of cash to savor in Giuseppe Bisci’s Verdicchio with “Oysters and Pearls” and Royal Caviar from the menu.

If you’ve never heard of Bisci, let’s start here. Robert Parker Jr. himself called Giuseppe Bisci’s Verdicchio “one of the finest I’ve ever tasted,” and noted that “Verdicchio is one of the joys of Italian oenology that rarely gets the respect it deserves, and few producers do it better than Bisci.” That’s the highest form of praise (along with Thomas Keller writing you checks each year) but it’s hardly surprising given the winery’s history of excellence and consistency.

Tucked away in the Apennine Mountains, the white wines from Marche benefit from long summer days of continuous sun and frigid mountain evenings. These drastic temperature swings are the secret sauce that leads to expressive white wines that bristle with energy. Bisci is perhaps the most well-known winery in the region, the result of Giuseppe Bisci’s decades of churning out outstanding and unique variations of Verdicchio.