Böen — a play on the famous French region of Beaune — is not meant to be the Wagner Family’s answer to Burgundy. Instead, it’s a project meant to highlight Sonoma County and why it’s one of the world’s most sought-after regions. It aims to incorporate the hedonism of the Santa Lucia Highlands and wines like Mer Soleil with the spice-driven elegance of the Santa Maria Valley’s Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir and the silkiness and brightness of the Russian River Valley Pinots, a la the Belle Glos Dairyman.
With the Tri Appellation Pinot Noir, they aim to do all of that in one wine.
Considering the Herculean task, the cuvee is a rather seamless blend with a melody of flavors. There’s cherries, cranberries, and raspberries with some more subtle notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. I think a lot of people are going to like it. It’s very well-balanced and in sync, with juicy, ripe notes, but nothing over the top. It’s still got silky smooth tannins and plenty of grace.